Heidelberg: Schloss, Alte Brücke und Studentenflair
Heidelberg has turned generations of poets' heads: the castle ruin glows above the Neckar at dusk, the Old Bridge frames the old town like a painting, and the Philosophers' Path delivers the postcard view free of charge. Germany's oldest university keeps the lanes young – and the pub density high.
Beds come in every key: the Arthotel Heidelberg goes for design near the Hauptstraße, Astoria and Atlantic Hotel keep up classic town hotel-keeping, the Backmulde unites wine tavern and lodgings under one roof, Bergheim 41 lives in the lively Bergheim quarter, and the Kurpfalzhof hosts guests more quietly on the edge of town. Motorhome travellers park An der Friedensbrücke, almost mid-city.
Between the students' prison, the Königstuhl funicular and a Neckar cruise on the solar boat, the days pass quickly. Booked directly with the host, the visit stays commission-free – and which old-town courtyard hides the best tarte flambée, the house knows better than any guidebook.